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Day 5 – First Safari at mFulaWozi

Hitting The Road

Today was the big day — safari day! Not just any safari either, but a 5-star luxury safari at mFulaWozi Wilderness, staying at Mthembu Lodge. The reserve borders Hluhluwe–Imfolozi, the second-oldest game reserve in the world (after Yellowstone in the USA).

We packed up the car after breakfast — porridge with honey, nuts, and raisins for me (trying to be healthy before the adventure 北). There was no popping back for forgotten toothbrushes this time; we had to be out by 10 sharp.

On the way, we stopped at Checkers for “Scooby snacks” and treats for the staff, then hit the road properly. The drive was long, bumpy, and full of potholes — like something straight out of Top Gear. Our travel agent’s route was clearly outdated, and with a few extra toilet stops, we arrived an hour late. I was desperate for the loo, so I made a beeline for the gate bathroom while Dad filled out the paperwork.

🏡 Arrival at Mthembu Lodge

We transferred from the hire car into a safari truck — yes, even my electric wheelchair was loaded in (though I didn’t end up needing it). The drive from the gate to the lodge was a mini game drive in itself — nearly an hour of pure off-roading, splashing through streams and spotting wildlife along the way.

At last, we pulled into Mthembu Lodge, greeted by staff with hot towels (my brother thought they looked like cinnamon rolls; I thought spring rolls) and a warm shot of hot chocolate. Just what we needed after the long journey.

After a quick safety briefing (“signing our lives away,” as I called it), we tucked into a late lunch — feta and butternut salad, quiche, and ribs. I went for two quiches (less messy!) and a perfect little crème brûlée for dessert, followed by a much-needed coffee.

First Game Drive

  At 4 o’clock, it was time for our first family game drive. Because of my disability, I sat up front with our guide, Njabulo — equal parts nerve-racking and exciting!

MThe first animal we spotted? Impala. (Not “McDonald’s,” as I joked.) Their sleek, caramel-brown coats were stunning in the late-afternoon sun. Njabulo turned out to be a keen birdwatcher, which was perfect since my grandad is one too — we all joined in with his bird book, identifying species as we drove.

As the sun dipped, we stopped for sundowners. Out of the back of the truck came an entire bush bar: Coke Zero, Appletiser, beer, vodka, and Amarula — South Africa’s answer to Baileys. With nibbles in hand, we toasted our first day in the bush.

After dark, the spotlight came out. For me, it made all the difference — with my visual impairment, I could actually see the animals better under the beam than in daylight! The only downside? The chill. ❄️ My sister needed the loo too, so we headed back to the lodge.

23rd July – Safari, Spa & Special Supper

Early Morning Safari

Agh — is it that time already? Yep, 5 o’clock! Mum woke me up, and I quickly got dressed in my safari gear. I was wide awake well before the official 5:30 am wake-up call.

We headed to the dining area, where there was a spread of coffee, tea, juices, fruit, granola, cookies, and rusks. I had mine with my medication to kickstart my body and brain. After that cuppa, I thought, better use the loo — what goes in must come out! By 6:00 am, I was ready to roll.

Climbing into the safari truck, I felt excited, cold, and nervous all at once. Luckily, they had blankets and hot water bottles — yes, hot water bottles! Each of us got one, and I tucked mine under my blanket, making my lap cosy and warm.

As the sun rose, the chill faded and layers came off. Before our mid-morning stop for a cuppa and sweet treat, we’d already spotted some incredible wildlife:
   •  A woodland kingfisher — red bill, pale chest, and bright blue wings.
   •   A pair of glossy starlings, perched together on a branch.
   •   A herd of African buffalo, resting and grazing in the bush.

A small dazzle of zebra, perfectly framed by the golden grass.
   •   And the star of the drive — a cheetah, sleek and stunning out on the open plains.

By around half nine, we were back at the lodge, hungry and ready for breakfast and I was already inspecting the menu

Breakfast and spa booking

After collecting my medication, we proceeded to the dining area. Typically, we occupied either the outdoor space at the long table or the indoor table at the rear, which accommodated all six of us. I desired a warm meal, so I ordered the Uphilli — a dish consisting of smashed avocado, feta cheese, and raw tomato, topped with two poached eggs. It was exceptional.

During our meal, a representative from the spa approached us with menus. I was impressed to see they offered a thirty-minute foot massage, a service rarely available in the United Kingdom unless accompanied by a full pedicure. It is unfortunate, as a simple foot massage is highly beneficial.

The services offered included back-and-shoulder massages, facials, manicures, and pedicures. When the therapist returned later to schedule appointments, I registered my interest in a back-and-shoulder massage as well as a foot massage.

Travel tip It is advisable to schedule intervals of rest between significant endeavors, as this allows for improved enjoyment and effectiveness through adequate rejuvenation.

Spa season with a twist

At the reception, we completed consultation forms before proceeding to the spa, which consisted of a series of traditional African rondavels. Unfortunately, I encountered a difficulty entering the space due to the low doorway. My mother attempted to assist, but entry was ultimately not possible.

Alternative arrangement: relocate my treatment to our designated room. While awaiting my turn, our courteous bartender, Doctor, provided us with water, and we relaxed by the pool until it was my appointment.

When my therapist arrived, I had my massage sitting up on the bed — and it was stunning. I loved it. Sadly, there wasn’t time for the foot massage, but lunch and the afternoon game drive were waiting.

Lunchtime and lazy moments

Lunch proceeded as expected, with an element of pleasant surprise: it was pizza. A sharing plate was presented, and upon inquiring if additional servings were desired, we readily agreed. As pizza is my preferred dish, I could not decline the opportunity for an extra slice.

Subsequently, we placed a pre-order for our dinner options for that evening, followed by returning to the accommodations for a brief period of rest prior to the next activity.

Afternoon game drive

I changed into warmer clothing in preparation for the evening drive, anticipating a temperature decrease following sunset. The remaining family members assembled in our room, which was nearest to the entrance, and I ensured to use the restroom beforehand, as there are no proper facilities available in the vicinity of the bush. Soon thereafter, our guide Njabula transmitted a radio message.

“All crew, all crew, Njabula is going mobile from Mtemba Lodge.”

Initially, the weather was hot; however, a cool breeze gradually developed as the sun set. Almost immediately, we observed buffalo, followed by additional animals along the route. Njabula sat beside me, pointing out various sights before they were noticed by the others.

We paused to enjoy sundowners as the sky transformed into a vibrant orange over the sprawling bush. The atmosphere was enchanting—serene, tranquil, and remarkably different from the familiarity of home. Glasses clinked with a variety of drinks, ranging from chilled vodka and sparkling Appletiser to refreshing soft drinks, as I fully immersed myself in the moment.

On our return journey, we observed elephants, buffalo, and even a leopard. I found it particularly enjoyable to listen to the rangers’ radio communications regarding other wildlife sightings, which created a sense of being part of an exclusive safari network. As we crossed the stream and approached the lodge signage, it became evident that we were nearing our destination. The staff greeted us with welcoming smiles and provided warm towels, a thoughtful gesture that enhanced our experience. 

Dinner around the fire pit

That evening, dinner was served outdoors around a fire pit. Initially, I was concerned about my ability to manage, but fortunately, there were appropriate tables and chairs available. I ordered the salmon; however, it contained bones, so my father assisted by cutting it into smaller portions. Due to my autism I’m not a big fan of food being cut up so I didn’t eat the main course which was salmon

 Dessert was the best part — a rich chocolate lava cake, warm and gooey on the inside, with a melted center overflowing with decadent chocolate. After pudding, it was straight to bed — another early-morning safari awaited at dawn.

This was even more special as we got to sing happy birthday to the other guests.

Big Day Adventure

An early start but not too early

Today was one of the most exhilarating days of the journey. Although there was no wake-up call at 5 a.m., the morning was not a period of rest. Breakfast was served promptly at 8 a.m., as the group was scheduled to depart at 9 a.m. for a full-day safari in another park.

We had not yet observed any giraffes, which was my primary objective. Conversely, Ruby was focused on spotting lions; her interest is attributed to her reputation as an exceptionally skilled observer of these animals

Breakfast was an exceptional culinary experience. I enjoyed French toast topped with basil cream, caramelized bananas, walnuts, crispy bacon, and a drizzle of maple syrup. It was a remarkable meal. My mother advised me to leave some room for later, and although it was a difficult decision, I did not finish it. Her advice proved to be prudent, as always.

Into the wild

We entered the safari vehicle through a discreet passageway, which eliminated the need for steps and made the process considerably easier for me, and then commenced our journey. Concerns regarding restroom stops were already present. I had attempted to be prudent before departure, but it proved insufficient. By mid-morning, I was experiencing urgent discomfort. Fortunately, lunch was approaching soon. However, before that, I had to nip to the loo. That was an adventure in itself. As I had to go in a shed. However back to the most exciting part of the adventure is:

The sightings

The morning was unbelievable:

   •  Giraffes — finally, my dream come true.

   •   Elephants strolling calmly through the trees.

   •   Rhinos grazing in the distance.    

•   Leopard, sleek and mysterious

All before we had our morning coffee

At our mid-morning coffee stop, we sat near a bird hide with a hive buzzing above us. It reminded me instantly of my grandad, who loves birdwatching. I thought back to our visits to Low Barns Nature Reserve and Granny’s garden — those peaceful moments all came flooding back.

We sipped “bush coffee” (which was basically hot chocolate with a fancy name!) and enjoyed some snacks the staff had brought along — such a lovely touch.

  Lunchtime in the bush

Returning to the vehicle, we encountered a “no entry” sign on private property. However, since our safari company held ownership of the park, we proceeded without issue. My brother believed he had observed something noteworthy, but by the time we turned back, it proved to be unremarkable. I was unable to witness the event, as I was preoccupied with questioning our guide. My brother was clearly displeased.

Returning to the vehicle, we encountered a “no entry” sign on private property. However, since our safari company held ownership of the park, we proceeded without issue. My brother believed he had observed something noteworthy, but by the time we turned back, it proved to be unremarkable. I was unable to witness the event, as I was preoccupied with questioning our guide. My brother was clearly displeased.

The lunch was straightforward yet excellent, comprising vegetable wraps, chicken wings, a salad, and a notably sweet, indulgent milk tart for dessert. It was fresh, comforting, and precisely what was needed.

Travel Tip: Pack tissues, hand gel, and a sense of humour — bush toilets aren’t glamorous!

The lion whisperer

The afternoon was quieter, with mostly animals we’d already seen. It was still wonderful, but I thought we’d had our big moment for the day.

Then, the long-anticipated sighting finally occurred.

Ruby then drew our attention to the sighting.

“Lion! Lion! Lion!”

None of us believed her at first — but sure enough, there it was. The lion she’d been hoping for.

We were over the moon! The excitement in the truck was unreal. We followed the lion for a while, watching it move gracefully through the grass before finally heading back to the lodge.

Back at camp, the lovely staff greeted us with hot towels and cool drinks — their usual warm welcome. Dinner that night was a creamy risotto (the best I’ve ever had), followed by a rich chocolate cake. Then it was straight to bed, ready for our final safari morning.

What a day — giraffes, elephants, rhinos, leopards, and finally, the lion.

And as for Ruby? Officially crowned The Lion Whisperer.

Day 7- Sunrise, Spa and Safari Magic

Early Morning Magic

The morning began with an early start, as we wanted to make the most of our final full day on safari. After a quick cup of tea, we set off with the aim of returning to the lodge by approximately 10:30 a.m.

Medication ➕ muffins 🟰safari ready!

During the drive, we paused to watch the sunrise, which provided a peaceful setting for my morning coffee and medication. The chef had prepared fresh muffins earlier that morning, so I had one with my medication and another afterwards to help take away the aftertaste.

We later returned to the same hide as the previous day, where I enjoyed another bush coffee. It was just as delicious as I remembered. Since returning home, I have bought a bottle of Amarula in the hope of recreating the flavour, although I am saving that story for a later Cape Town blog post.

Safari sightings

Feeling refreshed and ready to continue, we travelled deeper into the bush for our final morning of wildlife viewing. It was an important opportunity to fully appreciate the safari experience, and the sightings that followed more than met our expectations.

   •  African buffalo, marking another significant sighting from the Big Five

   •   Giraffes moving gracefully among the trees

   •   A diverse range of birdlife, with calls carrying across the grasslands

By the time we returned to camp, our planned 10:30 a.m. breakfast had become more of a late brunch. After such a rewarding morning, the slower pace was a welcome change.

Travel tip It is advisable to carry a small snack or set aside a muffin, as morning safari drives can often last longer than expected.

Spa stories

As breakfast was coming to an end, members of the spa team visited our table with the treatment menu. I was pleased to have the opportunity to book a foot massage, having missed the chance earlier in the trip due to a sunset game drive, and I was determined not to miss it again.

Later, back in our room, I was seated on the couch when the therapists arrived. The treatment was wonderfully relaxing, and while they worked, Mum spoke with them about her own background in beauty therapy.

She had trained at the same college and had once won the title of “Best Therapist in the World”, receiving as her prize a trip to a destination of her choice. That opportunity ultimately led her to a position in Lemnos, Greece, with Mark Warner, where she met my father, who was working there as a water sports instructor.

In many ways, that journey became part of my own story too.

A feast before farewell

After our treatments, we had a light but delicious lunch: mini Mexican tacos, refreshing broccetto, and a coconut-topped cake. The perfect fuel for our final sunset game drive.

This one felt extra special — a proper goodbye to the wild. As the sun dipped low, we stopped for sundowners and realised we hadn’t ordered dinner. No problem — the lodge had a surprise planned.

That night, we were treated to an incredible Zulu dancing performance

followed by a traditional South African braai. Dinner included:

Tomato soup starter

A sizzling barbecue feast

And rich malva pudding for dessert (shared with Dad — though we were so full we could hardly finish!)

Travel tip: Consider taking part in any special evening events hosted by the lodge, as these experiences often become some of the best memories ever.

Early to bed

After an evening filled with excellent food and memorable experiences, I was more than ready to rest. I went straight to bed, mindful that the following morning would bring one final early game drive before our journey home.

It was a fitting conclusion to a truly memorable day.

I ended the evening feeling relaxed, content, and deeply grateful for the time I had on safari. It was an unforgettable experience and a experience I will never forget

Day 8 – Farewell to Safari

  Bittersweet beginning

This was the day I had been anticipating with mixed emotions, as it marked our departure from the safari experience. The occasion felt deeply bittersweet; I was reluctant for it to end, having treasured every moment and created some truly special family memories.

There was, however, still time for one final game drive, followed by breakfast, which remained an important part of the morning routine.

After our early wake-up call, we enjoyed our morning cups of tea and completed the usual preparations before boarding the safari vehicle. I hoped it would be a memorable final drive and, although I told Njabula there was no pressure though as he did a great job being our family’s guide.

Once-in-a- lifetime spotting

Njabula exceeded all expectations during our final game drive. The morning began with sightings of zebras, followed by an extraordinary encounter: two leopards in conflict. It was a rare and remarkable moment that left everyone in the vehicle captivated. Although I did not fully comprehend the significance of the sighting at the time, I recognised afterwards how privileged I was to witness such an exceptional event. Following the excitement, we paused for a well-earned coffee stop. As this was my last game drive, I chose to enjoy bush coffee one final time, and it was every bit as enjoyable as before.

I will remember Njabula fondly, not only for his warmth and professionalism, but also for his shared enthusiasm for birdwatching.

That final cup of bush coffee felt like a fitting and memorable conclusion to the safari experience.

The hide where we stopped brought back memories of birdwatching with my grandfather at Low Barns Nature Reserve. Although we were thousands of miles from home, the setting felt unexpectedly familiar and comforting, reconnecting me with treasured memories from childhood.

It was a reflective moment that added emotional depth to an already unforgettable

The Hunt for Cheetahs

Following our coffee stop, we continued the drive with the hope of locating cheetahs. Although we were not fortunate enough to see them, there were clear indications that they had recently been in the area. Their presence was suggested not by movement or tracks this time, but by a distinctive scent carried through the bush.

Interestingly, the scent was surprisingly similar to popcorn, which made the experience both unusual and memorable. It was a striking reminder that wildlife encounters are not always visual; sometimes the surrounding environment offers its own subtle evidence of animals nearby.

Even without a confirmed sighting, the strength of the smell created a sense of anticipation and mystery. It gave us the impression that the cheetahs may have been close, hidden somewhere beyond view in the surrounding landscape.

Although the cheetahs remained unseen, the moment added another fascinating layer to the final safari drive and demonstrated how rich and a sensory experience the bush can be for me who has autism so I would highly recommend it. If you have the opportunity to do safari go for it!!! It’s the best experience ever.

Brunch and too much sugar for the morning adventure

On our return to camp, breakfast was ready and waiting. As we arrived later than planned—closer to 11:00 a.m. rather than the scheduled 10:30 a.m.—the meal felt more like brunch than breakfast.

I chose French toast, although I later regretted the decision when I began to feel unwell during the journey home.

The staff also provided an additional cold breakfast option, which included pancakes. Everyone was quick to take advantage of the unexpected treat, and Mum kindly managed to collect one for me. I enjoyed mine with chocolate sauce and, although I was tempted to have a second, I decided that one was enough given the amount of sugar already involved.

The chocolate pancakes were a memorable and enjoyable final treat before departure.

Afterwards, we returned to our rooms to pack our belongings and prepare to leave the lodge.

Farewell at the lodge

Leaving the lodge was an emotional moment. While we waited for Njabula to transport us to the gate, we offered sweets and chocolates to the staff as a small gesture of appreciation for the excellent care and hospitality they had shown us throughout our stay.

I also signed the guest book, reflecting on the wonderful family memories we had created during our time there. Before departing, I purchased a few souvenirs, including a work bag and a beautifully scented soap—the same fragrance used in the lodge bathroom, which now has a place in my own.

Before beginning the hour journey to the gate, I made one final restroom stop.

The last safari moments

The journey away from the lodge was deeply bittersweet. I tried to remain composed, but once we reached the gate, the emotion of leaving became overwhelming.

Even as we departed, the safari experience offered us a few final memorable moments:

   •   A skull that Jack was intrigued by and would have liked to take home, although it would likely have raised concerns at airport security.

   •   A black panther snake crossing the road, which caused a noticeable reaction from Njabula, who was clearly uncomfortable around snakes.

   •   Railway tracks marking the edge of the reserve and signalling the transition back towards everyday life beyond the wilderness.

Before continuing by car, I made one final restroom stop, although the flickering light made it a less comfortable experience than I had hoped.

The Jouney Back

Shortly after leaving the gate, we saw a dung beetle rolling along the road, which Jack found particularly exciting. Although the occupants of the other vehicle were less pleased that we had stopped, it felt like a fitting final wildlife moment before leaving the reserve.

We followed an alternative route recommended by the lodge staff, which was expected to be less uneven. However, once we reached the gravel sections, the surface was still very noticeable, both in how it felt and how it sounded.

As the journey continued, the amount of sugar I had consumed earlier began to affect me. I started to feel increasingly unwell and was eventually sick. Mum moved to the back seat to look after me, and afterwards I felt considerably better.

When it was time to take my emergency medication, I had it with half of a toasted sandwich that the lodge had packed for the journey. Unfortunately, the fried bread did not sit well with me either. By the time we reached Durban, I was definitely ready for the journey to come to an end.

Back in Durban

Upon arrival, we adjusted the room arrangements, and I shared a room with Daisy on this occasion. The room also included a desk, which proved particularly useful for enjoying a cup of tea and a rusk without creating unnecessary mess.

Dinner was simple yet thoroughly enjoyable: tomato soup served with cheesy bruschetta, which was pleasantly reminiscent of a margherita pizza. Afterwards, I went straight to bed, feeling exhausted after such a long and emotional day.

Farewell to the safari experience, and thank you for the extraordinary memories. It had been a chapter filled with remarkable wildlife encounters, quiet moments of reflection, generous hospitality, and precious time spent together as a family. Although leaving was difficult, I felt deeply grateful for everything the safari had given us: the unforgettable sights, the shared laughter, the stillness of the bush, and the sense of wonder that stayed with me long after we had returned to Durban.